Loganberry: Potted Fruit Plant
How to Plant
Planting Potted Plants:
- Choose a well-drained, sunny location with no standing water.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12 inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
- The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
- Space canes 3 feet apart in rows 6 feet apart.
- Dig a hole at least 2 times the size of the root ball.
- Set the plant in the hole so that the root ball is level with the surrounding soil, back fill and press the soil firmly into the hole cavity.
- Water deeply. The water will seal off any air pockets around the root ball.
- Use a stick or marker to indicate where the plant is planted.
- Mulch with 2-3 inches of compost of pine needles to retain moisture and prohibit weed growth.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients. Control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Add mulch each year as needed.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- In the spring, before leaves sprout, apply a granular fertilizer following the instructions on the label. Most new growth will come from the plant’s crown under the soil. Plants use a lot of energy in spring when growth begins, so do not let plants dry out.
- Remove all wild brambles near cultivated varieties to prevent virus diseases.
- Pruning loganberries:
- Do not prune the first year EXCEPT to remove dead, damaged or diseased wood.
- Each spring select 5 or 6 of the most vigorous new canes and cut them back to 30 inches tall. All other canes can be removed.
- Remove and destroy canes immediately after they fruit in their second summer. They will not bear again.
- Add a summer topping to encourage side shoots off the canes to the pruning done in early spring and after harvest. Pinch back 3-4 inches off shoots up to 2 inches tall.
- Remove and destroy old canes immediately after their second fruiting in early summer of their second year. They will not bear again.
- Monitor for Pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
- Cane fruits may need support to help prevent wind damage and make for easier harvest. Tie canes to wire that is strung parallel between two posts at either end of the row.
Harvest and Preserving Tips
- Loganberries ripen on the plant mid to late summer. Berries ripen quickly and are highly perishable. Pick frequently and discard berries that have rotted on the canes to prevent diseases. Check under leaves for ripe berries.
- Hold the berry carefully between your thumb and forefinger and pull. Berries should be allowed to darken to a deep purple before picking. Taste berries and harvest when they are sweet. At their ripest and sweetest, berries are plump and turn the deepest color. Expect to harvest at least twice per week.
- Keep berries in a shallow container, around 3 berries deep. Quickly cool berries in the refrigerator after picking. Properly stored, berries can keep for 3-7 days.
- Loganberries may be frozen or used for preserves.
Common Disease Problems
Botrytis Fruit Rot: Flattened, black masses of fungus appear on canes. Open flowers can become infected which in turn infect the berries. Berries become mummified. Burpee Recommends: Prune to improve air circulation. Allow fruit to ripen in an open canopy by pruning accordingly. Remove mummified fruit as the disease overwinters in the berries.
Crown Gall: Rough, wart-like growths or galls appear on the crown at or just below the soil surface. These can also form on the stems or canes of blackberries. Plants can become stunted, subject to drought stress and wind damage. Larger galls may cause girdling which results in plant death. Burpee Recommends: Examine the canes prior to planting for any indication of galls. Avoid injury of the plant. You can remove the gall if it is small enough by cutting around it into healthy wood allowing that area to dry out, cutting into healthy tissue as little as possible. If plant is severely infected, remove it.
Phytophthora Root Rot: This soil borne disease thrives in poorly drained soils and can live in the soil for years. Above ground symptoms include pale or reddish leaves, small leaves, defoliation, branch die back, stunting and death. Burpee Recommends: Remove infected plants.
Powdery Mildew: This fungus disease occurs on the top of the leaves in humid weather conditions. The leaves appear to have a whitish or greyish surface and may curl. Burpee Recommends: Avoid powdery mildew by providing good air circulation for the plants by good spacing and pruning. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.
Raspberry Leaf Spot: This causes small spots to appear on the young foliage. As the spots grow the tissue may fall out leaving holes in the leaves. Eventually the leaves will drop and weaken the plant. The disease is worse when it occurs on the primocanes as the fruiting canes will die back after producing fruit anyway. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected plant debris. Provide good air circulation through pruning and removing canes that have fruited.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems
Aphids: Greenish, red, black or peach colored sucking insects can spread disease as they feed on the undersides of leaves. They leave a sticky residue on foliage that attracts ants. Burpee Recommends: Introduce or attract natural predators into your garden such as lady beetles and wasps who feed on aphids. You can also wash them off with a strong spray, or use an insecticidal soap.
Dryberry: Tiny mites that live in the buds of your berry canes start feeding on the berries as the fruit develops, leaving berries with dried spots or dead sections in them. Burpee Recommends: Remove and destroy any effected berries. Remove all debris and the end of the season. Contact your county extension service for recommendations in your area.
Raspberry Cane Maggot: Larvae are white and legless and turn into small flies as adults. A plant affected by the maggot wilt and become discolored. Swelling in stems may occur. Burpee Recommends: Prune and destroy infested canes. Keep plants well watered to improve plant vigor.
Raspberry Crown Borer: Larvae have white bodies with brown heads. Adults are clear-winged moths with yellow and black banding. When attacked by the borer, plants will lack vigor and will be stunted. Wilting occurs in lateral cane growth. You can cut open the stems and see the tunnels the borers make. Burpee Recommends: Prune and destroy infected canes to prevent spreading. Ensure plant is not under stress as pests are attracted to plants that are weak.
Root Weevils: Adults are flightless, dull brown or gray. Adults feed on the foliage while the larvae feed on roots destroying root hairs and chewing their way through the bark and cortex of larger roots. They can tunnel through to the crown. Burpee Recommends: Check roots for larvae prior to planting. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for control assistance.
Do I need two different varieties to get fruit? No, loganberries are self-fruitful.
Will I get fruit this year? No, expect fruit one year after planting and 3-5 years after planting for full fruit.
What is a loganberry? Loganberries are a cross between a raspberry and a blackberry. They are longer than a raspberry with a juicier and sharper flavor.
Can I grow loganberries in containers? Loganberries are rangy plants, usually 4-8 feet in height and are challenging to grow in containers.
Will birds eat loganberries? Yes, birds will eat loganberries. Cover the plants with bird netting to protect them from birds.